Friday, September 2, 2011

Taj Majal and the B-donk-i-donk That Got Us There

Annie Did Not Like Feifel Going West With Us


We were pretty excited about heading to Agra, aside from Feifel, the mouse that freaked out Annie on the train.  Agra is home to the Taj Mahal. Three and a half weeks earlier we had been doing a slide show at Colorado Mesa University about our Mexican Shoe Caravan this last summer and after it was done, the director of the OutDoor Program, Chad Thatcher, invited us along on this trip.  The rest was a blur as we prepared our visas and finished out our terms and finals… now we were in India and we were finally catching up with ourselves; unreal.


One of the Gates Heading into the Taj
But back to reality: in Agra, we hailed a cab and ended up unwittingly hiring a male chauvinist ba-donk-i-donk (donkey's rear) for a driver, as he refused to acknowledge Annie’s questions and when he did answer her he did so by speaking to me.  For those that do not know, India is a very male dominated society and suffers because of it.  100,000 women are treated for burns every year because they over cooked their husbands food or did something equally petty that their spouse was not pleased with.

The male/female ratio is off by 20% in favor of the men because 13 million baby girls have been murdered through infanticide in the last 20 years as having a son brings prestige, while having a girl means debts by way of dowries that cannot be paid by poor families at the time of marriage.  Recently the dowry was made illegal in India to help address the problem, but the biases felt toward women will likely continue on for generations.

All that aside, I cannot begin to describe the beauty of the Taj; so many times in life you feel disappointed when you see something with your own eyes after it has been bragged up by the world.  This was not one of those times.  It takes your breath away.  It is massive!  It is gargantuous (I don’t think this is a word, at least according to spell-checker) and it rises into the air as if you are seeing some heavenly majestic white marble edifice that should not possibly exist in this world.  The Taj is solid marble covered in black onyx verses from the Koran.  It is truly second to none.

Check Out That Smog!




For around $2 we hired a guide and just like in "Slumdog Millionaire" he made up the history of the place as we toured one of the seven man-made wonders of the world.  He told us that the king who built the place had 14 children, but another guide walked by, laughed, and said, “He only had 6 children.”

Our guide, Asif (Au-sif, like Auto with a sif), quickly countered with, “Oh yes, they had 14 children but 8 died immediately after childbirth… the queen was very sad.”



We laughed and enjoyed ourselves as our guide took pictures of us jumping over the Taj, or holding it in our hands, or holding it up over our heads, or cupping the main minaret with our pinky finger and thumb.

The Taj is a mausoleum that was built for the king of India’s third wife.  He loved her dearly and she had three final requests (after burying her 8 imaginary kids) before she died.  She asked that he take care of their 6 kids; she asked that he never marry again; and finally, she asked that he build a final resting place for her that the whole world would never forget.  He did exactly that.  He had planned on building a black marble replica for his own mausoleum, but before he could bankrupt India with the second monumental feat, his son overthrew him and locked him away in prison, where he died alone.  Very sad, I know.


I do not know how much of this information is correct as I have never studied Indian history, aside from the British colonization of the country from the 17th c.—1947, when it became an independent nation, but I think most of his information was somewhat in the vicinity of the truth.  There is a saying here in India: "An Indian will never tell a lie but if he does not have the answer he will make one up.” 

Okay, I made that quote up, but only because of the loss of my 8 children.

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