Showing posts with label Agra. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Agra. Show all posts

Friday, September 2, 2011

The Last of Agra and Delhi

We stayed at the Taj until it was getting dark and then we high-tailed it back to the train station. Once there we had an hour to kill, so we mingled with the homeless kids, feeding them chocolate and the rest of our goodies.  For about $3 I had my shoes completely mended, re-sown, glued, and cleaned.  I am hard on my hiking boots and even when I buy the expensive ones I tend to get less than 6 months out of them.  He just walked up and whipped out his shoe repair kit and went to town on them.  I did not know they could be repaired but he did it in less than 10 minutes.

Another lady came up to us and warned us that the kids we were associating with were very very naughty, which probably meant one of two things: one, they were thieves and pick-pockets or two, they were understood to be Dalit or "untouchable" in the caste system.  I now tend to think the lady was trying to state the latter and not the former.  We didn't care either way, we had nothing on our person and were not worried in the slightest.  They were cute kids.  However, after hanging out for a while the older kids ran off and when they returned they were carrying a 20 lb dead monkey in a bed sheet. 

The thing was rotting, half the innards were gone, and they said they would not remove it from us until we gave them 10 rupees (which is about .20); instead, I licked the dead carcass, which made them vomit and run away, but not before I stole all their money just to teach them a lesson.

The Shoe-menders











Not having paid their extortion fee, we said our goodbyes to the ingenious little scallywags and boarded our train for Delhi.  Once on board we quickly figured out why the ticket was only .85; they packed everyone in like sardines and even with standing room only, it was extremely uncomfortable.  We had purchased seats and were able to sit on the hard benches, but others purchased the standing room only tickets and one lady in particular was bogarting our benchy-goods and decided to hone in on the sitting-action.  For an hour she tried to squeeze Annie out, even though there wasn't an inch of room, but she gave up at last and with her doughy skin and supple-big-lady-breasts (I think there were four of them), she collapsed upon Annie and fell asleep right on top of half of her body.

That was the longest 4 hours of both of our lives.

The next morning we slept in at our guest house and then went to the airport to purchase tickets to Bombay, which is a thousand miles south and all the way to the west on the coast of the Indian Ocean.

To sum up Delhi cannot be done in words, but here is the best I’ve got: both Annie and I loved it, but it helped that it is winter here and only 70 degrees.  We would never come here in the summer when temperatures soar way past the hundreds with 99% humidity and the smells are so rank they will make the butt of a dead rat appetizing. The temperate heat kept the smells down and the wandering cows were a sight to see.  The scams are everyone but we walked away without having lost a cent and we also learned why some have such a hard time here.  It is not for everyone, but for those willing to take a few chances, it pays out dividends.  

Taj Majal and the B-donk-i-donk That Got Us There

Annie Did Not Like Feifel Going West With Us


We were pretty excited about heading to Agra, aside from Feifel, the mouse that freaked out Annie on the train.  Agra is home to the Taj Mahal. Three and a half weeks earlier we had been doing a slide show at Colorado Mesa University about our Mexican Shoe Caravan this last summer and after it was done, the director of the OutDoor Program, Chad Thatcher, invited us along on this trip.  The rest was a blur as we prepared our visas and finished out our terms and finals… now we were in India and we were finally catching up with ourselves; unreal.


One of the Gates Heading into the Taj
But back to reality: in Agra, we hailed a cab and ended up unwittingly hiring a male chauvinist ba-donk-i-donk (donkey's rear) for a driver, as he refused to acknowledge Annie’s questions and when he did answer her he did so by speaking to me.  For those that do not know, India is a very male dominated society and suffers because of it.  100,000 women are treated for burns every year because they over cooked their husbands food or did something equally petty that their spouse was not pleased with.

The male/female ratio is off by 20% in favor of the men because 13 million baby girls have been murdered through infanticide in the last 20 years as having a son brings prestige, while having a girl means debts by way of dowries that cannot be paid by poor families at the time of marriage.  Recently the dowry was made illegal in India to help address the problem, but the biases felt toward women will likely continue on for generations.

All that aside, I cannot begin to describe the beauty of the Taj; so many times in life you feel disappointed when you see something with your own eyes after it has been bragged up by the world.  This was not one of those times.  It takes your breath away.  It is massive!  It is gargantuous (I don’t think this is a word, at least according to spell-checker) and it rises into the air as if you are seeing some heavenly majestic white marble edifice that should not possibly exist in this world.  The Taj is solid marble covered in black onyx verses from the Koran.  It is truly second to none.

Check Out That Smog!




For around $2 we hired a guide and just like in "Slumdog Millionaire" he made up the history of the place as we toured one of the seven man-made wonders of the world.  He told us that the king who built the place had 14 children, but another guide walked by, laughed, and said, “He only had 6 children.”

Our guide, Asif (Au-sif, like Auto with a sif), quickly countered with, “Oh yes, they had 14 children but 8 died immediately after childbirth… the queen was very sad.”



We laughed and enjoyed ourselves as our guide took pictures of us jumping over the Taj, or holding it in our hands, or holding it up over our heads, or cupping the main minaret with our pinky finger and thumb.

The Taj is a mausoleum that was built for the king of India’s third wife.  He loved her dearly and she had three final requests (after burying her 8 imaginary kids) before she died.  She asked that he take care of their 6 kids; she asked that he never marry again; and finally, she asked that he build a final resting place for her that the whole world would never forget.  He did exactly that.  He had planned on building a black marble replica for his own mausoleum, but before he could bankrupt India with the second monumental feat, his son overthrew him and locked him away in prison, where he died alone.  Very sad, I know.


I do not know how much of this information is correct as I have never studied Indian history, aside from the British colonization of the country from the 17th c.—1947, when it became an independent nation, but I think most of his information was somewhat in the vicinity of the truth.  There is a saying here in India: "An Indian will never tell a lie but if he does not have the answer he will make one up.” 

Okay, I made that quote up, but only because of the loss of my 8 children.

Thursday, September 1, 2011

The Train Saga

(1) How I Feel at the Train Station
When it comes to trains and train stations, the average American is kind of rail-retarded; behind the curve as they say, at least compared to the rest of the world.  I will amend that statement to say that New Yorkers would not fall into this category. We just do not use trains in the States and for good reason.  For most, they are expensive and they take away the freedom that cars naturally and more cheaply give us.  In the States, our train system is only partially subsidized by the government.  We have one main domestic train called Amtrak and to just go from Grand Junction to Denver, it is nearly $400.  Almost everywhere else in the world, trains are the main mode of transportation and they are heavily subsidized by their governments.  This means that they are used more often than other forms of transportation and it usually means they are cheap as well.  To go to Agra and back, which is about 120 miles, we paid $4 a ticket.  All of this to say, when it comes to trains we Americans are a little bit train-inept.

Now to continue from where we left off yesterday: After the guy ran up to us and told us to go to Platform 5, we looked around and realized we had no idea where that was located.  We asked a few people but our ticket did not say anything other than the train number, the boxcar number, and the seat number, so no one was really able to help us.  We scouted around and reconnoitered the lay of the land and finally saw a stair case rising over the tracks leading to a bridge that crossed Platform 1, which was where we were standing.  It made sense that other platforms would follow on the other side of the magical rainbow, so we climbed the stairs and saw that on the bridge/landing, there were 16 platforms up ahead, like Concourse A,B,C,D…. etc.  Still, our train number was not on any of the signs, which meant having to go to each platform to see if we could find our train number.  We started at Platform 5, but when we walked down the terminal our train number did not show up anywhere.  We quickly re-ascended up the stairs to the main terminal/rampart and started checking every platform for signage of our departing train.  The place was packed with thousands of travelers and it was now 8 a.m. and our train was boarding. 

(2) Which Way Do We Go?
We scurried about for another 5 minutes and then we both heard a lady over the loud speaker mention the word "Agra" in Hindi.  We stopped to try and listen because they follow Hindi announcements in English, but the place was so loud and bustling we could hardly hear a thing.  We did our best, but we missed the message and had to wait another 5 minutes before it cycled through all the platforms and returned to the Agra arrival schedule.  By this time we were concerned we were going to miss our train, but we rushed down to Platform 5 again as we heard for the second time where it was we needed to go.  This time the signs on Platform 5 had our train up as having arrived and we realized that when we had been there earlier there was no signage because they did not change the signs or update them until the minute that the train was scheduled to arrive. 

Elated that we had found our train, we rushed to the area that said our particular car was supposed to be at and walked directly to a pair of seats in the middle of the car and sat down.  Then we checked our tickets for our exact seats and found we were sitting in them—synchronicity!  We stowed our stuff and slowly chugged toward the Taj Mahal.  Once we got going I started reading the local newspaper and I kept thinking I was seeing something move out of the corner of my eye, but when I looked the thing disappeared.  A few minutes later Annie jumped and screamed as a cute little Feifel ran between her feet.  That's right, the train had mice.  My first thought was to step on the little critter, but then I remembered I was in India and that by doing so I would go straight to jail for killing someone’s grandma, followed by going straight to hell for killing someone’s grandma.  Feifel was left unscathed.

Twenty minutes later, the train stopped and suddenly our car began filling up.  There was a bit of a commotion as a young man insisted that he stow his luggage under our feet, which would have meant our legs being propped upward with our knees in our faces for four hours.  This was an unacceptable proposition and Annie held her ground until he demanded to see our ticket as he claimed we were in his seat.  We showed him our ticket and he suddenly said, “You are in the wrong car!  This is S4 and you should be in S6!” 

Dang-it, I thought, no synchronicity!

(3) "Your Wife is Not Here"
We apologized and grabbed our stuff hoping the train was not going to take off while we unloaded and reloaded.  We could not go through the cars themselves as they were packed and impossible to traverse in any kind of timely manner.  I got off the car but Annie stayed on and so when I turned around, she was gone.  I jumped back on the train and looked down the rows and she was nowhere to be seen.  That was how I lost my wife in India.  If you see her, please return her to the Rak International Hotel in Delhi.  I would be greatly appreciate having her back.

A moment later Annie poked her head out of the car and said, “Where did you go?”

I asked her the same and we both ran up and down the terminal looking for our car, all the while hoping the train was not going to pull away.  The problem with finding it stemmed from two sources: one, the conductor pointed in the wrong direction when stating which way to go; and two, the cars were all out of sequence.

(4)  "Too Many Trains"
The train cars went from S3-S5 and then there was a gap and S7 began the next series with no signs of S6.  We pretty much ran the length of the train like two runners doing the rope-a-dope between bases, only we were doing it in reverse by running to one end of the try to a certain extent and then turning around and going in the opposite direction and following that pattern but going further each time until we had covered the full length of the train and had finally found S6.  We were probably quite the sight to see.  Logically we should have just ran to one end and then the other, but when you think your train is pulling away you do not act logically.

We got back on with plenty of time to spare and chugged along the way to Agra.

            To be continued…




Prepare to Keep Your Pants in the Upright Position

There is a ubiquitous term for describing India that every person traveling here knows: it is "organized chaos." Initially I was thinking that Delhi was more of organized mayhem, but mayhem sounds more sinister and that is definitely not the connotation I would want to portray.  Delhi has anywhere from 16 to 25 million people living in and around the area (no one really knows how many people live here) and is one of the fastest growing cities in the world.  India itself is set to out-pace China for the world's most populous country by 2030.

We slept soundly through our first night along the Main Bazaar and the following morning we set out to explore the city.  We were immediately latched upon by a young man named Roger and as we walked down the streets he proceeded to tell us that he was not trying to scam us, but that he wanted to work on his English, as he was studying English at the nearby university.  We had heard this exact story in several countries now, but we were enjoying the sites and decided we would go along for the ride.  He asked us what we wanted to do for the day, and we told him that we were looking for some food and afterward we would go to the train station to buy tickets for Agra.  He told us that he could show us where there was good food and then stated that we would have to go to the government tourist information office for the tickets because foreigners could not purchase said tickets anywhere else… yada, yada, yada.  Annie smiled at me as we just kept talking with “Roger” our new friend.

Roger led us to a small restaurant where we had “thalli” for the first time in our lives.  There must have been a rufee in it, though, because we both woke up in a dark room six hours later, tied up on the floor on some movie set in downtown Bollywood :0)  I know, I know… I shouldn’t joke since family reads this; in truth, the food was great and we both ate well for about $3 total, including drinks.  Roger then took us to the Government Tourist Information Center and then had to leave because of previous arrangements.  His plan was to get a commission from the aforementioned GTIC, but we had a belts firmly fastened around our wastes and were not interested in the least when the guy at the tourist place told us that tickets to Agra and the Taj Mahal were $130 for the day.  We left the place and hailed a rickshaw, which is called a tuk-tuk in the rest of Asia, and asked the driver to take us to the train station.

The driver of the rickshaw told us right away that he would take us to a govt-tourist info center but we were adamant and told him to take us to the train station instead.  Again, he seemed to be getting upset and told us we had to purchase our tickets via said info center as (he claimed) they did not sell tickets to foreigners at the train station.  Again, we told him to take us to the train station.  As we drove along he tried to pull over two different times at different info centers but each time we told him to take us to the train station.  We got within a half block and both Annie and I saw the sign to the train station but he stopped and tried to pull into the government ticket reservation center.  We told him to drop us off at the station again and now he was getting mad because he kept saying over and over again that we could not purchase tickets at the station.  It’s kind of funny, because if someone tells you something over and over again, you tend to start believing what they are saying and pretty soon you feel the belt holding your pants up, loosening, and then suddenly you find your butt exposed while someone tells you to just shut up and bend over and take it (I know this is crass but so is traveling in foreign countries and it really is how you feel).

We tightened our belts and told the rickshaw driver to pull over as we were getting out to go to the train station.  We paid him his fare, which was about 80 cents and then made our way to purchase our own tickets.  I mentioned before in South East Asia how getting through some of these places is like the scene from “Airplane” where the captain of the plane is making his way through the airport corridor and is being accosted by the followers of Hair-Krishna; he judo-chops them and sends them through a window; then he is accosted by Buddhist monks and he karate-kicks them in the groin and flips them through the air; next, the Salvation Army lady and some girl scouts hold up their tin cans for money and they meet the same fate… that is how you feel in these places.

The moment we got to the train station several “pant removal specialists” tried to convince us that we could not buy tickets at the station and proceeded to try and take us to a separate area where we could buy our tickets.  We got in line (or as everyone in the rest of the world calls them “Queues”; think letter Q with an S attached) and were told to go upstairs to purchase tickets for foreigners.  One of the guys following us in told us that he would show us the way and instead of going upstairs, he tried to lead us away from the station.  We turned around and made for the stairs.  There was a sign as we headed up that said, “If someone tries to tell you that you cannot purchase tickets at the train station or that we are closed for any reason, they are lying to you… pull your pants up and get your @$$ upstairs (I of course added the last bit).

We got our tickets and you know what they cost round trip?  $4 a ticket to Agra/Taj Mahal .  At the government info centers they wanted $130 total, or $65 a piece for the same ticket.   I couldn’t believe we saved so much money and managed to be nice to everyone we met in the process.  Now it was off to tour one of the largest cities in the world…