Thursday, September 1, 2011

The Train Saga

(1) How I Feel at the Train Station
When it comes to trains and train stations, the average American is kind of rail-retarded; behind the curve as they say, at least compared to the rest of the world.  I will amend that statement to say that New Yorkers would not fall into this category. We just do not use trains in the States and for good reason.  For most, they are expensive and they take away the freedom that cars naturally and more cheaply give us.  In the States, our train system is only partially subsidized by the government.  We have one main domestic train called Amtrak and to just go from Grand Junction to Denver, it is nearly $400.  Almost everywhere else in the world, trains are the main mode of transportation and they are heavily subsidized by their governments.  This means that they are used more often than other forms of transportation and it usually means they are cheap as well.  To go to Agra and back, which is about 120 miles, we paid $4 a ticket.  All of this to say, when it comes to trains we Americans are a little bit train-inept.

Now to continue from where we left off yesterday: After the guy ran up to us and told us to go to Platform 5, we looked around and realized we had no idea where that was located.  We asked a few people but our ticket did not say anything other than the train number, the boxcar number, and the seat number, so no one was really able to help us.  We scouted around and reconnoitered the lay of the land and finally saw a stair case rising over the tracks leading to a bridge that crossed Platform 1, which was where we were standing.  It made sense that other platforms would follow on the other side of the magical rainbow, so we climbed the stairs and saw that on the bridge/landing, there were 16 platforms up ahead, like Concourse A,B,C,D…. etc.  Still, our train number was not on any of the signs, which meant having to go to each platform to see if we could find our train number.  We started at Platform 5, but when we walked down the terminal our train number did not show up anywhere.  We quickly re-ascended up the stairs to the main terminal/rampart and started checking every platform for signage of our departing train.  The place was packed with thousands of travelers and it was now 8 a.m. and our train was boarding. 

(2) Which Way Do We Go?
We scurried about for another 5 minutes and then we both heard a lady over the loud speaker mention the word "Agra" in Hindi.  We stopped to try and listen because they follow Hindi announcements in English, but the place was so loud and bustling we could hardly hear a thing.  We did our best, but we missed the message and had to wait another 5 minutes before it cycled through all the platforms and returned to the Agra arrival schedule.  By this time we were concerned we were going to miss our train, but we rushed down to Platform 5 again as we heard for the second time where it was we needed to go.  This time the signs on Platform 5 had our train up as having arrived and we realized that when we had been there earlier there was no signage because they did not change the signs or update them until the minute that the train was scheduled to arrive. 

Elated that we had found our train, we rushed to the area that said our particular car was supposed to be at and walked directly to a pair of seats in the middle of the car and sat down.  Then we checked our tickets for our exact seats and found we were sitting in them—synchronicity!  We stowed our stuff and slowly chugged toward the Taj Mahal.  Once we got going I started reading the local newspaper and I kept thinking I was seeing something move out of the corner of my eye, but when I looked the thing disappeared.  A few minutes later Annie jumped and screamed as a cute little Feifel ran between her feet.  That's right, the train had mice.  My first thought was to step on the little critter, but then I remembered I was in India and that by doing so I would go straight to jail for killing someone’s grandma, followed by going straight to hell for killing someone’s grandma.  Feifel was left unscathed.

Twenty minutes later, the train stopped and suddenly our car began filling up.  There was a bit of a commotion as a young man insisted that he stow his luggage under our feet, which would have meant our legs being propped upward with our knees in our faces for four hours.  This was an unacceptable proposition and Annie held her ground until he demanded to see our ticket as he claimed we were in his seat.  We showed him our ticket and he suddenly said, “You are in the wrong car!  This is S4 and you should be in S6!” 

Dang-it, I thought, no synchronicity!

(3) "Your Wife is Not Here"
We apologized and grabbed our stuff hoping the train was not going to take off while we unloaded and reloaded.  We could not go through the cars themselves as they were packed and impossible to traverse in any kind of timely manner.  I got off the car but Annie stayed on and so when I turned around, she was gone.  I jumped back on the train and looked down the rows and she was nowhere to be seen.  That was how I lost my wife in India.  If you see her, please return her to the Rak International Hotel in Delhi.  I would be greatly appreciate having her back.

A moment later Annie poked her head out of the car and said, “Where did you go?”

I asked her the same and we both ran up and down the terminal looking for our car, all the while hoping the train was not going to pull away.  The problem with finding it stemmed from two sources: one, the conductor pointed in the wrong direction when stating which way to go; and two, the cars were all out of sequence.

(4)  "Too Many Trains"
The train cars went from S3-S5 and then there was a gap and S7 began the next series with no signs of S6.  We pretty much ran the length of the train like two runners doing the rope-a-dope between bases, only we were doing it in reverse by running to one end of the try to a certain extent and then turning around and going in the opposite direction and following that pattern but going further each time until we had covered the full length of the train and had finally found S6.  We were probably quite the sight to see.  Logically we should have just ran to one end and then the other, but when you think your train is pulling away you do not act logically.

We got back on with plenty of time to spare and chugged along the way to Agra.

            To be continued…




Free the Dalit


This is for the Dalit

The Psychology of Travel

Usually jetlag is kind of douchie.   You flip to the other side of the world and your circadian rhythms want to put you to sleep at noon when it is now midnight.  After that, you find yourself sleepy or wanting to take naps at the most inappropriate times—like when you should be out holding a pit viper or blowing it kisses because it is very "fliendly". 

The View from our Hostel




The aforementioned is the mildly douchie side of jetlag. The more traumatic side of jetlag is displacement, which for some is culture shock and for others is all out geographical, cultural, and linguistic induced depression.  We have had neither.  We got off the plane on the other side of the world at what would have been 2 p.m. Mountain Central time (2:30 a.m. in Delhi time; and yes, they are off by a half hour for some strange reason) and went to sleep right away with the help of a sleeping aid.  That is the key: go to bed while it is dark regardless of whether or not you are tired.  Therefore, we have had almost no jetlag and have been on an Indian sleeping schedule from the moment we got here.

To start our official second day in Delhi, we purchased breakfast on the roof of our guest house and then walked to the train station, which was about 3 blocks away.  We walked onto the platform and were immediately stopped by a guy that asked to see our tickets.  He grabbed Annie’s ticket out of her hand and started to walk in the opposite direction of the train platform, followed by, "You must come with me to find out where you are departing from."  A second guy walked up and said, “Your train has been canceled.”  The first guy hushed the second guy and then Annie ran up and grabbed her ticket from the first guy and we both returned to the platform to figure out where our train was located.

A minute later the first guy showed up and told us that our train was located on Platform 5.  It turned out that he was really an employee of the train station just trying to help out a couple of foreigners, but since there are so many scams always going on, it is difficult to discern the good between the bad and the ugly.  It is important to note another phenomenon you will encounter while traveling: it is the “You are a foreigner and I can control you by taking power from you by demanding from you your ticket/receipt/map/whatever.”  When you don’t hand it over they try and take it from you to assume control of the situation. 

This technique may not even involve a scam, as was the case at the train station, but in male dominated societies, (especially ones like in India that do not want to lose face) it is the worst.  For an example of the scam involved in this, think back to the Easy Cab experience: our cab driver asked to see our receipt for our prepaid cab and as Annie showed him, he just yanked them out of her hand and in the chaos of trying to load our bags, he kept the receipt and then demanded payment again when we were dropped off at our guesthouse.  We refused of course, but it is yet another way others try to control your actions.  One tries to hold onto whatever it is they are needing help with, but in the helpless state a foreigner in a strange land finds themselves in, it is inevitable that every once in a while they were temporarily gain the upper hand. 

Me and Rej
Your job is to outwit them and regain it, but to do so in a way that does not cause an episode or upset your easily displaced delicate water balance.  The more you are around it the more you are able to react in an appropriate manner and it is these skills I love honing when I’m traveling.  It is more than street-creds, it is an awareness of the world around you that can only be gleaned from the pressure cooker of displacement.  Traveling in majority/third-world countries is a maze of psychology and a battle of wits that goes beyond chess and opens up parts of yourself that you never knew existed; it really is marvelous and it replaces absurd fears that most of us live with for all of our lives… when really there is no need to live with them.

Our second day in Delhi to be continued…

Our New Motto in Delhi: "Kids, Take Candy from Strangers"

Jama Mosque
Having obtained our $4 tickets to Agra/Taj Mahal for the following morning, we both were feeling pretty upbeat. Delhi is absolutely amazing.  Whenever I am in places like this I begin to wonder if these people are not somehow my own… you know, like I'd been misplaced at birth, flown to a different country and painted white to cover up the truth of what really happened following my birth—think Michael Jackson.  I say this not to disrespect the family that I adore and love, but merely to draw attention to the fact that I really like organized chaos.  I love how these people drive; I love how they interact with one another; and I love being greeted by Muslim bullhorns chanting Islamic prayers at 6 a.m.--"GOOD MORNING A-HOLES!"  That is the proper way to greet people you want to offend.

All that to say, I really like India; it is not the type of place a traveler would want to cut their teeth on, but with a little savvy and know how, it is quite remarkable.  With our tickets in hand, we hailed a taxi and negotiated a price for seeing most of the main attractions in Delhi.  We agreed on 600 rupees for the day, which was half of what the govt. info centers wanted and roughly $11 for a guided trip through the city.  We visited the Red Fort, which was the last great Mughal Fort built in India; let me tell you, this thing was huge!  Its size would dwarf any fort ever conceived of in the Americas.





Boys Peeing on Red Fort

While hiking around the area we saw our first rats.  They scurried about on the sidewalk in broad daylight as they did what rats do best—freak us out.  No one paid any attention to them but I must say that seeing them confirmed by suspicion that rats had indeed made it to India and they were not as excited as we were to be there.



We left Red Fort behind and went to Jama Masjid, which is Jama-mosque and Delhi’s largest Muslim mosque.  They did not allow short sleeves in the place, so Annie was forced to wear a multicolored mumu that was really flattering and drew so much attention that kids ran up to us and asked to take pictures of her with them.  We walked through a massive market/bazaar and then found a snake charmer with baskets of vipers.  This guy was the real deal.  He played his flute and would kiss the vipers saying things like, "They like kisses" and “they vely fliendly.”



The old snake charmer asked if I wanted to hold one of them and since I wanted to add to our new t-shirt brand called “Dumb-tourist.com” I thought, what the heck, the strange and crazy old snake charmer that I just met on the side of the street said one of the most poisonous snakes in the world is friendly and that it likes kisses; what could go wrong?

Like I said, these are my people and evidently their snakes are my peeps as well; we kicked it old school, New Delhi style, but just after he claimed his viper never bit anyone, it attacked his arm.  He yanked the thing off his tattered and thick sweater and then reprimanded the snake by smacking it on the head as if it was a toddler throwing a tantrum.  Smacking it on the head, of course, caused the viper to flare out and hiss in anger or as I like to say, blow kisses, but once the hypnotic tones of the flute filled the air again, the snake returned to his old friendly self, which probably meant he was trying to figure out how to murder the old man in his sleep by shoving that flute down his curry-hole when no one was looking.

Lotus Temple In Delhi

Having charmed my first viper, we decided to make toward the Lotus Temple.  According to the locals, and I have not verified this yet, the Lotus Temple is the building that inspired the architecture of the Sydney Opera House in Australia.  Upon seeing it, you might believe the story is true.  It looks like a giant white lotus and inside it is constant worship to numerous gods—they threw the Christian God in for free.

India Gate


 As we were driving to India Gate—which looks like the Triumphal Arch in Paris, which is modeled after Titus’ Roman Triumphal Arch in Italy—the driver of our taxi, Vicki, told us to be aware of three types of taxi drivers in India: one was the driver over 65, because old people were crazy.  The second was the Sikh driver, because they wore turbans over their head and their brains got baked in the sun.  He followed with, “I can say such things without being a bigot because I have a crazy Sikh friend.” 

I thought it always helpful to justify racism as long as you have a friend who fits the description of why it is you believe what you believe; then it is not bigotry.  The third crazy taxi driver to avoid, he told us, is the female driver.  We were told females should never be allowed to drive because their brains were so small.  He told us this while Annie and I were laughing hysterically.  He added while addressing Annie, “No offence to you of course.”  I added, "It is alright, her brain is so small she does not understand what you are saying.”

Along the way we found out the most important thing to know about India.  Our driver told us to give chocolate away to the kids because chocolate was like karma, good will come back to you and you will have great luck from spreading around chocolate.  Note, it is not good enough to give chocolate to the kids that you know; you must give it to kids you don’t know as well.  We liked this bit of advice and will pass it on to America: give kids more chocolate, or as I like to say, give candy to kids, especially if you’re a stranger.  I think this could really catch on.  Until next time…

Prepare to Keep Your Pants in the Upright Position

There is a ubiquitous term for describing India that every person traveling here knows: it is "organized chaos." Initially I was thinking that Delhi was more of organized mayhem, but mayhem sounds more sinister and that is definitely not the connotation I would want to portray.  Delhi has anywhere from 16 to 25 million people living in and around the area (no one really knows how many people live here) and is one of the fastest growing cities in the world.  India itself is set to out-pace China for the world's most populous country by 2030.

We slept soundly through our first night along the Main Bazaar and the following morning we set out to explore the city.  We were immediately latched upon by a young man named Roger and as we walked down the streets he proceeded to tell us that he was not trying to scam us, but that he wanted to work on his English, as he was studying English at the nearby university.  We had heard this exact story in several countries now, but we were enjoying the sites and decided we would go along for the ride.  He asked us what we wanted to do for the day, and we told him that we were looking for some food and afterward we would go to the train station to buy tickets for Agra.  He told us that he could show us where there was good food and then stated that we would have to go to the government tourist information office for the tickets because foreigners could not purchase said tickets anywhere else… yada, yada, yada.  Annie smiled at me as we just kept talking with “Roger” our new friend.

Roger led us to a small restaurant where we had “thalli” for the first time in our lives.  There must have been a rufee in it, though, because we both woke up in a dark room six hours later, tied up on the floor on some movie set in downtown Bollywood :0)  I know, I know… I shouldn’t joke since family reads this; in truth, the food was great and we both ate well for about $3 total, including drinks.  Roger then took us to the Government Tourist Information Center and then had to leave because of previous arrangements.  His plan was to get a commission from the aforementioned GTIC, but we had a belts firmly fastened around our wastes and were not interested in the least when the guy at the tourist place told us that tickets to Agra and the Taj Mahal were $130 for the day.  We left the place and hailed a rickshaw, which is called a tuk-tuk in the rest of Asia, and asked the driver to take us to the train station.

The driver of the rickshaw told us right away that he would take us to a govt-tourist info center but we were adamant and told him to take us to the train station instead.  Again, he seemed to be getting upset and told us we had to purchase our tickets via said info center as (he claimed) they did not sell tickets to foreigners at the train station.  Again, we told him to take us to the train station.  As we drove along he tried to pull over two different times at different info centers but each time we told him to take us to the train station.  We got within a half block and both Annie and I saw the sign to the train station but he stopped and tried to pull into the government ticket reservation center.  We told him to drop us off at the station again and now he was getting mad because he kept saying over and over again that we could not purchase tickets at the station.  It’s kind of funny, because if someone tells you something over and over again, you tend to start believing what they are saying and pretty soon you feel the belt holding your pants up, loosening, and then suddenly you find your butt exposed while someone tells you to just shut up and bend over and take it (I know this is crass but so is traveling in foreign countries and it really is how you feel).

We tightened our belts and told the rickshaw driver to pull over as we were getting out to go to the train station.  We paid him his fare, which was about 80 cents and then made our way to purchase our own tickets.  I mentioned before in South East Asia how getting through some of these places is like the scene from “Airplane” where the captain of the plane is making his way through the airport corridor and is being accosted by the followers of Hair-Krishna; he judo-chops them and sends them through a window; then he is accosted by Buddhist monks and he karate-kicks them in the groin and flips them through the air; next, the Salvation Army lady and some girl scouts hold up their tin cans for money and they meet the same fate… that is how you feel in these places.

The moment we got to the train station several “pant removal specialists” tried to convince us that we could not buy tickets at the station and proceeded to try and take us to a separate area where we could buy our tickets.  We got in line (or as everyone in the rest of the world calls them “Queues”; think letter Q with an S attached) and were told to go upstairs to purchase tickets for foreigners.  One of the guys following us in told us that he would show us the way and instead of going upstairs, he tried to lead us away from the station.  We turned around and made for the stairs.  There was a sign as we headed up that said, “If someone tries to tell you that you cannot purchase tickets at the train station or that we are closed for any reason, they are lying to you… pull your pants up and get your @$$ upstairs (I of course added the last bit).

We got our tickets and you know what they cost round trip?  $4 a ticket to Agra/Taj Mahal .  At the government info centers they wanted $130 total, or $65 a piece for the same ticket.   I couldn’t believe we saved so much money and managed to be nice to everyone we met in the process.  Now it was off to tour one of the largest cities in the world…